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Subject: Klondike Letter -- Isaac THEXTON -- Aug. 1898
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 14:38:11 -0800
Free Lance
Hollister, CA
5 Aug 1898
**************
Letter from Isaac THEXTON --
Through the courtesy of Mr. Wm. PALMTAG we are enabled to print the
following letter:
Circle City, June 17th --
We arrived here at 4 oclock yesterday afternoon. The first man we saw
was Geo. HERRINGTON, who is doing very well here. Ed. NASH is out on
70-mile creek prospecting. He did not get in on the Dawson City boom.
Chas. SMITH, who was in the plumbing business at Hollister, some 20 years
ago, is U.S. Customs Officer here.
Signed: Isaac THEXTON
Yukon River, June 18, 1898 --
Well, here we are at last, floating down the Yukon River, below Dawson
and expect to arrive at Circle City this evening -- the end of our
journey by water. Then we start for the headwaters of the Tanana River,
from 150 to 200 miles from here. We have the roughest part of our journey
to make yet, as our objective point is in an almost unknown country. We
purchased horses back at Tagish, on the trail, and have brought them thus
far on barges. As the season is now pretty well on we will be unable to
accomplish much, even should we strike a good-paying claim, as well will
have to make several trips back here to take in our outfits. There is 20
in our party in all, and our leader is an old miner and trapper. Each man
is on his own hook, unless he forms an undivided partnership.
From Six-mile River, where we built our boats, we have had a very
pleasant trip, so far. The rivers and lakes are very pretty, and the
scenery is grand. We passed through White Horse, Five Finger and Rink
Rapids safely, and never had a pound of our outfit damaged by water. The
day we passed through the White Horse Rapids a large number of boats were
damaged, and one barge sank after passing through it and going on half a
mile. The day following several more boats were smashed up, and 2 men
drowned. On Lewis River, 10 miles from Lake Lebarge, one of the boats
traveling with our expedition, belonging to a party from Oakland, broke
in 2, on a sunken rock in a swift current. Two of the men in the boat
jumped on an adjacent rock, and we managed to save them. The third man of
the party was carried down the river about half a mile and finally
managed to drift ashore. They lost fully 1/3 of their outfit, and the
balance was very badly damaged. We lost 2 days drying it out.
We arrived at Dawson City on the 12th, and found the river side lined
with boats, barges, etc., for over 2 miles. I should estimate the number
at between 2 & 3 thousand, and an average of at least 4 persons to each
boat. The main street, or water front, was crowded like Market Street,
San Francisco. I was somewhat disappointed in Dawson. We did not find it
as lively as anticipated. However, there is a great deal of work going
on, 3 sawmills running day and night, and a great many buildings in the
course of erection. It was Sunday when we arrived, and saloons and all
places of business were closed, but on Monday, everything was running in
full blast, and a great deal of gambling going on. The circulating medium
is gold dust, and the silver question dont seem to trouble them any.
Stores were all pretty well cleaned out, but there were no cases of
starvation, and flour was selling at $6 per sack of 50 lbs. Last winter
when the scare of famine was on, it sold for $1 a lb. Luxuries are pretty
high-priced, but the market is somewhat relieved by emigrants selling
part of their outfits. We got $20 for 4 gallons of coal-oil, and 60 cents
per lb for granulated potatoes. Butter is $5 per roll, and eggs $7 a doz.
A small can of sardines is $1, and oranges and apples 75 & 50 cents each,
respectively. We could have sold our horses at a profit of $350 on each
horse. One man who took 2 horses and a wagon in was offered $2000 for the
outfit, but he refused it as he expected to do better. A man and horse
are worth $5 per hour, and from 30 to 50 cents lb is paid for packing
stuff out to El Dorado Creek, a distance of from 15 to 25 miles. Some men
are making good wages packing goods on their backs. Dogs are also used
for packing. They can carry from 20 to 30 lbs., therefore, a man that
owns a few good dogs can soon make a small fortune. As soon as the river
steamers from St. Michaels commence to arrive, which will be about July
1st, prices on goods will be more reasonable.
Dawson is the dirtiest town in the world. Most of it is built on a swamp,
and neither man nor horse can walk on the center of the streets without
getting mired. The settlers tell us that there is but little sickness
there. However, I for one, would not like to live there. Vic, Kile and I
went out to see G. CORMACK, on Bonanza Creek. We found him well, and he
treated us to a nice lunch. He has 3 good claims, and had 60 men working
for him all winter. He had 25 or 30 men washing out for him the day we
were there, and 5 flumes running. He has an engine pumping to one of the
flumes, and will have a run of 3 weeks more before cleaning up. I would
then like to have his pile. He intends, after cleaning up, to visit the
outside world, and expects to visit his sister at Paicines. Should he be
able to sell out for the sum he wants ($150,000) he will not come back
here, as he, in conjunction with the majority of the mine-owners, are
greatly dissatisfied with the mining laws of this territory. The 10% draw
down by the government is a great drawback, and will injure the sale and
working of mines very much. He thought we were doing a very wise thing in
staying in Uncle Sams possession to prospect, and that we were going
into a fine mineral country.
Taking the Klondike, as a whole, we find that the richness of it is
greatly exaggerated. Outside of El Dorado and Bonanza Creeks, there are
but few such claims, but lots of mines that will pay good wages. It is
hard to find out the amount of gold cleaned up, as the mine-owners keep
it secret on account of the royalty. We also find that the vast fortunes
said to be owned by various mine-owners, and the rose-colored tales of
Swift-water Bills riches, put forth by the newspapers are laughed at
here, as Bill cuts but little figure here, from a financial point of
view.
Another thing: This is no country for inexperienced men, or men who cant
rough it. Disappointment awaits those who expect to pick up gold without
working hard for it. Many of the men whom we met on the trail sanguine
and hopeful, pulling their sleds behind them, seemed lost when they got
to Dawson, and scarcely made an effort to do anything for themselves. A
great many such men have already sold their outfits and will seize the
first chance of going back. They will certainly give this country a bad
name when they get home, but they have no one to blame but themselves, as
they should have never came here. Men of pluck and not afraid of hard
knocks have good chances of success. Anyway, Vic, Kile and myself have
made up our minds to take our chances, and hope to be among the fortunate
ones.
Three of the steamers that got stuck in the ice, last winter, have
arrived at Dawson. While I am writing this, another steamer has hove in
sight, but has stuck on a sand-bar and is making strenuous efforts to get
off. The river is full of sand-bars and islands. We had hard work, at
times, to keep our boats from grounding. However, most of the time we had
it easy and pleasant. We traveled from 12 to 14 hours per day, and made
from 60 to 80 miles, since we struck the Hootalinque River, as the
current has been from 5 to 7 miles per hour. We let the boat glide along,
only using a sail when the wind is favorable. The river is from half to a
mile in width.
We have enjoyed the trip very much, and weve never felt better in our
lives. Our health is first-class and, although at times we had hardships
to endure such as pulling our sleds when the thermometer was 10 degrees
below zero, and getting our blankets covered with 2 inches of snow when
the tent was blown over one night, yet we have suffered no ill effects
from them, but only laughed and thought it was the experience all
Klondikers had to endure.
Should any of Hollisters Four Hundred contemplate making a trip to
Europe this fall, let me advise them to not do it. On the contrary, if
they can afford the time and expense, let them follow our example and
crossing the Chilkoot and White Passes, go to Dawson taking the steamer
to St. Michael and thence home. My word for it they will combine both
pleasure, health, and profit. Pleasure: For they will never forget the
grand scenery this section possesses; health, as no climate boasts of
more bracing and life-giving properties and profit, for they will learn
many valuable lessons in economy, and come back with broader and wiser
minds. At present the weather is superb, and has been such since the
first of June. No one could help but enjoy the trip.
I will now close, with best wishes and kindest remembrances to all of our
San Benito friends.
Signed: Isaac THEXTON
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